Cub Cadet FAQ's
Hydro Relief Valve Repair Part 2
Info by Richard Christensen
WITH HIS PERMISSION
and
Stolen from ihcubcadet.com
Check all the parts for damage rust or wear. Using a small
needle nose or small gripping device, place the part with the small O-ring back
into the valve and see if it is loose. A good O-ring will have some pressure
when you push in or pull out. A bad O-ring will have almost no resistance.
You can get a replacement O-ring at a hydraulic repair shop. I got several
from a Caterpillar hydraulic shop and picked up one from NAPA part #727-2008.
Clean the inside of the check valve with a Q tip and then lubricate the area
where the small O-ring mounts with hydraulic fluid.
When you put it back together insert the large spring, small O-ring assembly,
and the steel ball into the valve body standing upright. Put the top hat end
piece in a 9mm or 3/8 inch long socket to hold it, and then place the small
spring into the top hat.
Holding the valve with your left hand, mount the top hat piece with the small
spring towards the steel ball and push together. When you get it lined up you
will need to pound it into place with a small hammer.
Cover the valve side openings with tape and then VERY IMPORTANT, with a mig
spot weld the top hat piece on two sides to the valve body, this will hold the
valve together in place of the original ridge. It only takes a small amount of
weld and it can be ground down. It doesn’t have to be pretty, and it doesn’t
come in contact with anything, as it is sitting in an opening. There is some
clearance on the side but try and keep it as close to the original diameter as
possible. (YOU DON’T WANT THE VALVE TO COME APART AND PIECES GO DOWN INTO THE
HYDRO).
Remove the tape and clean the valve up. It should look like this:
Replace the exterior O-rings, dip in some hydraulic fluid to flush, and then
replace in your tractor for a test.