Cub Cadet FAQ's

Steering Wheel Removal

First spray the bejeezes out of it with PB Blaster or Kroil and let it set for a day or two,
 then go to your local hardware store and buy 5/8" fine thread nut and bolt about 3 to 4 inches long,
 remove steering wheel nut and place new nut on covering about half of the threads on steering shaft,
 screw the bolt down inside the nut so it's tight, sit on the tractor seat with a hammer,
place your knees under the outer part of the wheel and push up against the wheel
 with your knees and hit the head of the bolt squarely,

It may take a few blows to get the wheel to move.

 Don't place the new nut tight against the wheel leave a little room (a few threads 2to3 ).

It will come off!

Or you can use the nut and a 5/16" carriage bolt inside the nut
with the nut screwed down on the shaft with one or two threads showing
 and do the same basic thing.

Or this Method

Posted by Richard Christensen on November 25, 2001 on IHCUBCADET.COM

Here is a method I use to remove stubborn steering wheels. Similar to the method in the FAQ but I use a small air hammer which you can purchase usually for less than $10.00.

1. Get a 4 inch 3/8 threaded bolt and cut the head off,
2. Lock two nuts approx 2 inches from one end and another nut placed where the clip of the air hammer will hold the bolt.
3. Back the Steering wheel nut out to the end of the threads.
4. put a washer on the end of the bolt with the two nuts and place it down the center of the steering shaft.
5. Place the air hammer on the end of the bolt with the nut adjusted to allow movement of the air hammer.
6. Put your knees under the steering wheel and pry up. You can operate the air hammer with one hand and pull up with the other hand. I like this method as no chance of hurting the steering shaft threads and missing with the hammer. This works on all my wideframe cubs. I don't know if earlier cubs had the same hollow steering shaft.